A Moonlit Watch for Humpbacks off Inhambane
We arrived under a rising moon and the sea turned to inked silk. The whales were late by calendar, early by scent, and perfect by heart. Their exhalations hung like silver lanterns in cold air, and we listened from shore, counting breaths. No boats, no choreography, just timing braided with patience. A local guide smiled, saying the wind smelled right. That night taught us to trust noses, tides, and quiet company. Movement came softly, and everything inside us moved with it.